Data from WRAP’s Sustainable Clothing Action Plan (SCAP) shows reductions in water consumption and carbon emissions achieved by the clothing industry but only slow progress on reducing waste across supply chains.
The figures show little or no progress on reducing the volume of clothing being landfilled or incinerated at the end of use.
WRAP’s SCAP 2020 initiative sets voluntary targets for the clothing industry to reduce its environmental impacts by 2020 against a 2012 baseline. More than 90 signatories include manufacturers, retailers, textile collectors, recyclers and charities. They represent almost half of the UK clothing retail market by sales volume
The plan seeks 15% reductions in the carbon and water footprints of clothing sold by participants, a 3.5% reduction in waste over product lifecycles and a 15% reduction in used clothing going to landfill and incineration.
The latest figures show that the water target has been achieved, with an 18% reduction. Cotton sourced from Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) is cited as a large contributor. WRAP believes that the 15% target for reduction in carbon will also be met, with 13% achieved, due to changes in fibres and the increased use of sustainable cotton.
But reducing waste over product lifecycles is slower, with only a 1.4% improvement. WRAP believes it is unlikely the 3.5% target will be met by December 2020.
Data from 2017 shows only a 4% reduction of textiles going to landfill or incineration compared with 2012. The amount rose by 10% to 336,000 tonnes, between 2015-2017.
Critics of the industry say that clothing has the fourth largest environmental impact after housing, transport and food in the UK, with nearly a million tonnes a year of textiles being incinerated or buried. Virgin resources are under pressure, often in countries with severe water stress, and moves towards synthetic fibres are increasing the use of oil.
Critics oppose the voluntary nature of the SCAP scheme and would like to see mandatory extended producer responsibility (EPR) imposed on the industry.
In June, the Government, which has yet to consult on EPR for the sector as part of its promised waste and resources strategy, rejected all of the recommendations of a highly critical report from the environment audit committee, then chaired by former Labour MP Mary Creagh.
The report had called for an incineration and landfill ban on clothes, as in France, and an EPR scheme including a 1p charge on every garment produced. This, it estimated, would raise £35m annually for better clothing collection and sorting in the UK.
The report also called for mandatory environmental targets for fashion retailers with a turnover above £36m, a reduction on VAT on repair services and further action to cut modern day slavery in the industry.
Peter Maddox, WRAP director, said: “I am delighted by the improvements that SCAP signatories have made in carbon and water, but waste and influencing consumer behaviour remain challenging. The next few years will be interesting with trends in fashion, EU exit and increased sector scrutiny shaping the future for UK fashion.”
Environment minister Rebecca Pow said: “There is much more to do, in particular, reducing the amount of clothing that goes to landfill. That is why this Government is committed to protecting the environment and tackling climate change by cutting waste and using resources more sustainably.”
WRAP is to run an awareness-raising campaign in 2020 to encourage more people to donate unwanted clothes. It will include a Recycling Locator and give details of collection bag schemes, postal schemes and drop-off points in high street stores, including that run by Tesco.
Following the general election and with consultations on EPR not yet completed, the waste sector is waiting to see if the Government will continue with its voluntary approach to increase recycling and reuse in the fashion and textile sectors.
Published On : 19-12-2019
Source : MRW
